What is it in your life you love to do with all your heart?
What is it that you have forgotten about doing because life got in the way?
What would you love to try but feel as if it would be too much of a hassle?
What did you think was cool as a kid, but never ended up trying?
Frustrated, hurt and angry, I chose to catch some surf in the fading light of day. Instead of sitting in my hotel suite simmering. The paddle into the cool breeze felt good. The golden sunlight was slowly fading and I knew that dusk would soon be at hand.
I felt strangely alive, feet slowly making circles as I sat on my board, the blue glow of light mixing with a hint of orange.
I sensed a bump in the horizon and slowly began paddling towards shore. Slowly, I picked up my pace and in the quasi darkness I felt the wave lift me. I jumped up and felt the surge of water, I could not quite see where I was going, but I sensed the height and volume of my wave. I coursed back and forth, left and right, up and down the board. I rode the wave all the way in, at home.
For me, when the water, sun, wave and I came together as one (and I let go) it was pure magic, alive and flow.
What kept me alive in the void was surfing. It gave me health, vitality and vitamin C.
Life becomes living when you gift yourself with what you love on a regular basis.
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