Body Surfing at Shipwrecks on the southern tip of Kauai I had an interesting experience the other day. The surf was moderate when I entered the shore break. In the blink an eye the waves suddenly became rough, large and challenging.


 When you swim out to the waves you need to go through an impact zone where waves are crashing. Once past the impact zone you are “on the outside” a relatively calm place of refuge.

On my paddle out the other day I was hit by a big wave in the impact zone. I know that the best way get past waves is to go through them, just below their surface. This particular wave was a doozy and it reverberated my whole body. As I came up the other side, the next wave was already impending, crashing right on my head. One big gulp was all I had before it hit me. Using all I had I dove deep through the water again. As I emerged I was enshrouded in white water. Still in the impact zone, the next wave was a couple of seconds away.

 Slow motion awareness…  Split second decision… Instead of paddling like crazy using up precious energy and oxygen I paddled with purpose.  Taking a couple of deep breaths I flowed through this wave. On the other side I was finally past the impact zone.  A break in the swell allowed me to enjoy floating with the ocean, bobbing in the current. Freedom.

 My breathing was deep, free and nourishing.  My mind was clear, aware and vibrant. My body was tingling, alive and felt every aspect of sea, air, wind and sky.

 In life difficult situations sometimes come seemingly out of no-where. They land right on our heads. They crash us down. How often do we take a brief moment to respond rather than react?  What might it be like to not get all worked up over what’s come up but to rather examine it with some curiosity, gaining some insight, then taking some appropriate action with purpose?

 Please give me a shout if you are in the “impact zone” of life and you’re getting hit right on the head by the waves. Let’s see how we can dive together through what’s going on, over to some freedom.




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